Saturday, April 30, 2016

Yosemite: The Grand Finale

I'd like to say first off that visiting Yosemite over Spring Break was amazing. It was one of Nacho's dream vacations and I'm so happy we made it a reality. It was my second time there, but considering I was 9 the first time, I didn't remember too much. The scenery is breathtaking in a way that only spectacular mountains and beautiful water falls can be. It's almost too perfect. Many of my friends commented the photos look fake--and they were right. You couldn't have painted better back drops. I think the girls were excited to be there after the initial disappointment of not finding any playgrounds.  Yes, despite repeated warnings that this National Park was not a "park" with actual kid-friendly equipment, they wanted so badly to find some. And really, I suppose I get it. But for me, the natural wonders were just as amazing. We made it in to the park around lunch time the first day and stopped along the road a few times as we got our bearings. There is kind of a sense of wilderness even if you are just day tripping it in the valley. The written warnings about mountain lions and bears is no joke and I opted to tell the girls about them more to advise them to stick near us than to scare them shitless. This wouldn't be a time to wander away or run ahead on the trails.  I wasn't too sure what food would be available there, so we had loaded up at Trader Joe's the night before as we were leaving Monterrey. But fortunately, there was a little grocery, deli and a cafe with some simple meals. The girls had hot dogs so I knew they weren't going to starve. And we all delighted in watching the squirrel leap on tables and take out napkins from the dispenser. Our first brush with Yosemite wildlife was pretty hilarious.
Later we would walk into a meadow and see deer grazing just feet from us. What a wonderful thing for these city kids to see up close and personal.  It was like the zoo opened up the cages.  They weren't spooked by us although I did emphasize to the girls that they must stay quiet and not move too quickly. Hearing a woman say there was a coyote at the camp the night before and then loudly follow that with "but you know, deer kill more people every year" was just lovely. Ha. We spent the second half of our day visiting the two main waterfalls: The Lower Yosemite Falls and nearby Bridalveil Falls. And this is where I need to interject that traveling with kids in nature is not all rosy postcard photos and quiet wonderment. Both girls had their yelpy moments that day. But Elisa definitely won the battle of the most annoying with her throw down after the Lower Falls. She got upset that Carolina was being carried on Papa's shoulders and decided to fake a limp. She wailed and snorted--her ankle was mysteriously twisted--and only being carried would stop it from hurting. But Momma don't play that. So I urged her to get a grip and took both girls to the bathroom for a little break. When she wouldn't perk up, I gave her a few minutes moping at a picnic table to get ahold of herself. 

And then I started threatening. She could go take a nap at the hotel. Or she could continue to lag behind and good luck finding us later. I basically laid it out for her that it wasn't an option to ruin our family vacation with her antics. I coddled her mystery ailment but told her to buck up and walk it off. And I swear to God not an hour later, a man approached me as we walked back from Bridalveil Falls to tell me that "these are the best days of your life" and I was so blessed to be here with my young family. Really? I could imagine a much better trip without two screaming, whiny kids. I had to stifle a laugh given the near total breakdown we'd had before, but I acknowledged him and said thank you. He was so earnest in his assessment, and I suppose I knew there was a grain of truth there. They might not remember this trip later in life, but I will. And I hope it encourages them to come back some day with their own little brats. Ahh, the cycle of life. Isn't it glorious?  We ended that day by checking into our hotel in El Portal. It was the Valley View Lodge and it was not much to look at from outside, but with a second floor balcony patio overlooking the Merced River, a kitchenette fully stocked with our beer, wine and goodies, Disney channel and a giant jacuzzi--I'd say we hit the jackpot. The girls were clearly in heaven and Nacho and I enjoyed a nice leisurely aperitif before ordering a pizza from the restaurant downstairs. Yes, this was living. All previous grievances forgiven.
Our last day in Yosemite started with a totally serendipitous turn. Nacho had been looking at photos online and wanted to find out where one in particular was taken. I quickly searched and saw that it was called Tunnel View and was just up the road to the right after you enter the park. We pulled in just as the tour buses were unloading. Yes, this was definitely THE spot. But it was breathtaking. After soaking up the amazing overview of the valley and Half Dome in the distance, we decided to continue up the road for a bit more. There was really no agenda, but I felt compelled to climb a little higher. We were also keeping an eye on our gas tank since there is no gas station in the park. But Nacho figured we could do a day's worth of activities before nearing "E." So we climbed up and by the time we passed the turn off for Glacier Point Road, we realized it was in fact open and made a quick u-turn to give it a try. Just the day before we'd seen in the Visitor Center a big sign stating it was still closed for the winter. Most information I'd seen online indicated it opened in May and though we were still a few days away, I was delighted to see it open and ready for traffic. Because of this jump start on the regular season, there was hardly anyone else up there.  We drove for miles before seeing the first turn off were there were some cars. And then we made it all the way to Glacier Point which was such a dramatic reward for trying the unknown. If we'd just turned around after Tunnel View, we would have missed it all. I still can't believe our luck. Elisa and Carolina had another little tussle up at the stone house, but they patched things up before we left. I hate to punctuate every scenic photo op with a story of fighting, but that's kind of what we endured. It was all beautiful and it was all a bit trying. Nothing like the trip Nacho and I took through the Southwest. I don't remember any fighting during those 10 days! Ah, the kid-free life. But I suppose they were doing their best, and we made it back down the mountain and found lunch again at the outdoor cafe. We decided to try the shuttle bus afterwards to hike to the Bridge at Vernal Falls. The climb was steep and we were all getting tired. But we made it that far. Another hiker told us the top wasn't much further, but these kiddos were done. And honestly, I wasn't going to miss it. Another time perhaps. We came back down and enjoyed the bus ride back to the car while chatting with an impossibly perky--and clearly Mormon--family from Utah. They were setting up camp on their first night in the park, while I couldn't wait to get back to our cushy hotel. Ha. Clearly Yosemite can be done many ways. And I think we did what was best for us. The girls crashed out with another pizza and Nacho and I polished off as much of the beer stock as we could. We left Yosemite on a high note, knowing we had seen and done as much as we could in two days. Time will tell if we make it back (with our without kids). I hope we do. 

Friday, April 29, 2016

Drive to Monterey

Our third day in California started with our departure from San Francisco. We had explored the city for two full days and saw so much that I didn't leave feeling we'd overlooked anything. No, we really crammed it all in. So it was actually kind of nice to get up and hit the road on a misty gray morning with nothing better to do than sit back and enjoy the scenery down the coastal highway. We were on the way to Monterey, about 2 and a half hours south of the city and even the rain couldn't dampen our mood. Well, at least mine and Nacho's. The girls did great with their bag of toys and such. We gave in to electronics only about an hour into the drive. And then they both passed out just about 30 minutes before Monterey. It wasn't much of a nap, but at least they snuck one in. As we pulled into the parking lot, the clouds literally parted and the sun came peeking out. It was glorious and such a nice feeling after a sleepy start to the day. I had heard good things about the Monterey Bay Aquarium and if their ticket prices were any indication, this was like the Disneyland of Aquatic Life. We didn't splurge a lot on the trip, so this was the one thing I felt like we really needed to experience and enjoy spending the money on. From the minute we stepped in and saw a huge circular ceiling with fish swimming past, I knew we were going to have a good time. The scale of the exhibits was really great and the diversity of animals and ability to showcase them all so well made a great impression. The sea otters were adorable, the sea turtles and jelly fish absolutely elegant, the sharks fascinating if a bit intimidating. And just by stepping outside the aquarium to the patio, we could see from side-to-side of the big, beautiful bay all the birds and seals you could imagine. Even the girls $28 lunch (of bullshit organic hot dogs, fruit seltzers and yogurt) couldn't make me upset that day. Things were just too pretty.
Leaving the aquarium we really didn't have much of a plan. Fortunately all my photo posts on Facebook prompted a few friends of ours to comment on nearby places of interest that they had visited. So just like that, we had crowd sourced the rest of our afternoon. I love spontaneous shit. And that's exactly how it all felt. We made it to the Dennis the Menace playground literally minutes away and let the girls run wild for an hour. After that, we heard we had to check out Point Lobos State Park just south of the bay. And boy, was it a treat. The seal pups were just recently born and so there were lots of warnings about not spooking them and keeping quiet. It was such a beautiful sight. I really felt like the girls were awed which is hard to do on a nature walk. So much of our trip involved them fighting off boredom. But not this day. Nope. Our whole time in Monterey was pretty magical. We hiked and found another hidden cove with more pups and enjoyed a chat with an older couple who knew the area well. I really love that we got to share this experience with the girls at this age even if the highlight for them was the stuffed animals they got at the aquarium and the McDonald's dinner we promised them for dinner. The day was just about perfect. Then we packed up some snacks and groceries from Trader Joe's (in preparation for our 2 days in Yosemite) and settled in for the drive to Merced. That was our half way point to Yosemite and it made sense to get there and sleep off such a long and wonderful day. Ready for the next!
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Wednesday, April 27, 2016

San Francisco Sights

After our first marathon day in San Fran, I knew we were off to a good start. If we'd had to leave right then and there, we would have been able to say we'd seen a lot. So it was with this relaxed attitude that we woke to conquer a second day in the city. And starting off with our beautiful old hotel stair case, the girls were on an adventure. We stayed near Union Square West which has a very downtown, working world kind of vibe and maybe not the best for just hanging out.  So it helped that we found them a little convenience store breakfast and a playground near the Painted Ladies to begin things. They loved the views of the city and the swings. A win-win for sure. 
We followed that with a little breakfast for Nacho and myself at Bacon Bacon just around the corner. Nacho discovered that place on one of his recent work trips where he's been hiking and walking all over the city. The girls didn't love their paprika-covered chicken strips, but I didn't blame them. The breakfast burrito was more palatable and the big red pig ride was a definite hit. I had to snap a photo. I had to snap a lot of photos on this trip. But really, when you are hitting sights like curvy Lombard Street or the seals at Pier 39, there are memories to be made and recorded. And yes, the seals stink. Elisa was no fan. But we spotted a few little ones hovering there in the masses and I think that was kind of cool for the girls to see. Pier 39 was also the spot of one of Elisa's more impressive tantrums of the trip. She didn't want to use the restroom with me and once I convinced her to come, she slammed the door closed in Carolina's face which set everything off. I scolded her and brought Carolina into the stall with us. Elisa refused to sit down and tried to recoil to the corner of the stall. I wasn't having it and in my attempt to get her to pull her pants down and sit on the toilet, my fingernail scratched her belly. OH MY GOD. You would have thought I stabbed her. It was the smallest of skin pricks, but it left a mortal flesh wound according to this 7 year old. Yeah, I'm that mean. I cut people with my fingernails. After some deep breaths and dealing with her sister, I returned to Elisa. She was just not in a mood to cooperate. But I let her know that we had a day of fun things planned and she could hop on board or go back to the hotel and nap. I think she opted for fun. 
After the pier, we had a lunch date with my college friend Cale who lives in the city and works near our hotel. The girls were hungrier than we were so McDonald's was on the menu. But not just any McD's...this one had a gourmet burger option which was fine for Cale's slightly hungover mood. It was great seeing him again after our playdate in NYC last fall. I know for both of us parenthood has been a real change of life, so it's fun to see how we're both coping and to relive some of those zanier parts of our youth.  After lunch, we walked through Chinatown on our way to the car and then drove towards Castro to catch a streetcar back towards the ferry building. The girls could not have been more excited to hop on these antique cars. Since Nacho had been talking about the fare with a local, Carolina caught on that kids 4 and under were free which prompted her to scream "I'm free! I'm free!" when we finally made it on. I died laughing. And that was probably the highlight of the afternoon. We rode the streetcar toward the end of the line, grabbed some ice cream and lunch for us at the Ferry Building and then took the roundtrip back to the car. The girls were noticeably tired from all the trekking so we drove for a bit checking out Lands End and the coast around Sutro Baths.  It was getting cold and very windy, so time to pack it in. We grabbed a pizza again from Uncle Vito's near the hotel while Nacho took off towards Mission to get SF-style burritos for our dinner. The evening wound down early which was just fine by me. After two go-go-go days in the city, it felt nice to have a little time to eat and veg in our room. The girls loved the elevator with its bench and they especially seemed to thrill at drinking ginger ale from the comfort of their hotel bed. I think every family vacation needs to recognize these small thrills and honor that for kids, it's most likely what you didn't plan that they fall in love with. I try to embrace that. And I think for Days 1 and 2 that worked well. More to come!